ISG X380 Thermal Imaging Camera (TIC) Charger Repair

Firefighters use the TIC (Thermal Imaging Camera) for a variety of tasks, from rescue to finding fire in walls. When our local fire department’s TIC stopped charging, the issue was rapidly found to be a broken spring contact on the charging cradle.

Charging contact assembly removed; the mangled pin is the middle one.

To their credit, the designers of the cradle mounted the contacts in a removable part and supplied a quick-disconnect.

What they didn’t do is prevent the company from being sold to Scott (the SCBA people), who’s website screams “go away” with its lack of information about these units and the inevitable “contact your Scott dealer”, who they know damn well have zero interest in finding you a small part from a charging cradle for a TIC that was discontinued during the first Clinton administration. Nine out of ten fire chiefs will just buy a new cradle, or an entire new TIC, which suits Scott just fine.

To which the Determined Enthusiast says: no thanks.

I was worried the spring pins would be overmolded or heat-shrunk in, but they’re not. They’re a light press fit. My normal MO here would be to measure up the spring pins and buy new ones from DigiKey. Sadly, they’re weird, in that the pin part is abnormally long.

The ones I ended up finding were from Everett Charles, part number P2532. They’re beefier than the originals (which is a good thing) and they don’t fit the original plastic piece. So I made one.

Here’s where the spring pins hit on the TIC.
Scan of the bottom of the part after inverting colors and changing brightness/contrast

A great reverse-engineering tool is the flatbed scanner. They’re great for tracing the weird profiles of parts like this one. Just put a ruler down on the bed with the part and scan away. If you have access to a CAD system like SolidWorks, you can use the Sketch Picture functionality — it has a handy feature which will calibrate the size of the picture to an actual length in CAD (which is what the ruler is for). Hint: before importing into CAD, use image editing software to change the brightness/contrast and/or invert the colors of the image so you can easily draw over it.

I’m old-school, so I CNC milled the part from some ABS I had around. But you could definitely 3D print this part too. Then press the pins in by hand and reconnect the wires and you’re good to go. Better than new.

Want to make your own and need the CAD? I got you…grab it below. Need some pins? Hit me up in the comments and I’ll see if I can hook you up.

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